Monday, September 28, 2009

“You Go into Photography with the Camera You Have, Not the Camera You WISH You Had….”
By E. David Luria, Founder and Director, Washington Photo Safari

You’re attending a photography workshop when you look around. You have the impression that everybody else has a bigger, better camera than yours--longer lens, newer, more expensive, more features. You have Lens Envy! You feel inadequate! Tail between your legs, you slink back home to engage in your other hobby—cooking. You prepare a great meal and serve it to your friends. They love the food, and one of them says, “Gee, that was delicious! How did you do that? You must have a great OVEN.” You pause for a moment, thinking, “A great oven?” As politely as possible, you say, “It’s not the oven. It’s me. I just know what I’m doing. It’s the cook who makes a great meal, not the oven.” What’s true for cooking is also true for photography.


Great pictures are created by photographers, not cameras. If Ansel Adams were alive today, and we gave him a five-dollar disposable camera to shoot pictures of a canyon or a waterfall or a city, he’d come back with beautiful images. Why? Because he knew what he was doing behind the lens.

Cameras, no matter how expensive they are, are merely boxes that let in light. It’s the photographer who aims the camera to capture the subject at the right time, in the right light, and--as Henri Cartier Bresson would say--at the “decisive moment.” Good photography is about composition, determining the subject of the picture, removing clutter from the background, finding the right angle, getting close, and looking for strong composition lines to run through the image to create a picture that clearly tells a story, gives a message, or conveys an impression.

If telephoto zooms and wide-angle lenses are so important, why did Henri Cartier Bresson capture all his most famous images with a simple 50mm lens? If autofocus and matrix metering and six-frame-per-second shutters are so important, why is it that Joe Rosenthal caught his famous Marine Corps flag-raising on Mt. Suribachi in perfect alignment with one push of the button on an old Speed Graphic? If color quality is so important, why are the classic photographs that are most seared in our memory mainly in black and white?

As a photography instructor, I’ve trained several thousand people how to take better pictures with any kind of camera--film or digital. One of my favorite clients arrived on a photo safari loaded down with about $4,000 worth of expensive camera gear draped around his neck. He explained, “I just looked at what the professional photographers use and got myself the same stuff.” He figured the equipment would help him take better pictures. It didn’t. Bigger, better cameras give you more options. They give you longer zooms, wider angles, faster and slower shutter speeds, more control over exposure and color filtration--but not necessarily better pictures.

The first step in taking good pictures is, of course, defining the subject. What’s the point of this picture? Why are you taking it? What are you trying to show? Who is the “client” for this picture? An architect? A nature-lover? The child’s parents? A magazine editor? If you’re your own client, what use do you have in mind for the picture? A family album? An e-mail to friends? You need to have a clear purpose. Next, pick a time of day when you have the best light. For outdoor pictures, this is generally an hour on either side of sunrise or sunset and never any time in between. After determining the purpose, get close to your subject. Eliminate any distraction in the background, so who or what the picture is about is clear to the viewer.

















A low angle helps you become more intimately involved with your subject, whether it’s a baby, a flower, a spouse, a cat, or a landscape. Next, look for strong composition lines that draw the viewer’s eye into and around the picture. Lines that move diagonally from lower left to upper right, or upper left to lower right, tie in with our Western cultural training of reading from left to right. Look for lines that lead the viewer’s eye to the main subject, which should NOT be right in the middle but in the left or right or upper or lower third of the picture. Then, look for opportunities to frame your subject using tree branches, archways, doorways, flagpoles, church columns, or any other available frame. Flowers or bushes on the bottom of your picture provide a frame of color. Now, check your exposure. This step is very important. No matter how smart your fancy double-matrix, triple-bypass camera meter is, it knows only what it sees. Make sure it’s reading a medium-gray reflectance on your subject, a mid-point between black and white. If in doubt, use a gray card or a hand-held ambient light meter.Then, check the depth-of-field of focus. Do you want the subject to stand out and have the background blurred? Use a wide aperture. Want everything in focus from front to back? Use a small aperture. Here’s a handy way to remember aperture. At F2, you get two people in focus. At F22, you get 22 people in focus. (Point-and-shoot camera users should look at the “Portrait” and “Landscape” icons on their control dial to achieve this same effect.)

Ready to take the picture? Make sure you’re holding the camera correctly, resting the body of the camera on the palm of your left hand, wrapping your left hand’s fingers underneath and around the lens, holding it very tightly to reduce camera shake. Better yet, use a tripod.Wait! Before you push the button, make sure you like what you see. What you see in the viewfinder is the way your image is going to look. Do you like it? Okay, push the button. More importantly, if you don’t like it, DON’T push the button! Lastly, look at all the pictures you’ve taken and remember that your worst pictures are your best teachers. Learn from your mistakes, so you won’t repeat them.



As a photography instructor who works in the political capital of my country, I’m a strong advocate of two official positions:
  • First, I urge my clients to adopt my official position on photography--which is to lie on the ground where all the good pictures are.
  • Second, I tell them that in the Luria Administration, we are opposed to “Faith-Based Photography,” that can be expressed as “I will take 500 pictures on this trip and pray that ten of them come out.” That wing-and-a-prayer approach to photography results in a self-fulfilling prophecy. Only ten pictures come out.
If elected, my Administration favors “Confidence-Based Photography” in which you’re careful to define the subject, get the best light and exposure, frame the image carefully in good composition lines, check focus and depth-of-field, hold the camera correctly, and push the button at JUST the right moment! With that approach, all 500 pictures should come out, causing your friends and family to gasp, “What? You took that picture with that camera?”



E. David Luria is a professional architectural and commercial photographer in Washington DC. A member of the American Society of Media Photographers and the Society of Photographic Educators, he has had his images of the nation’s capital appear in 100 publications, including TIME, Prevention, WHERE/Washington, Washingtonian, the Washington Post, and the Entertainment Book, and on the covers of 30 magazines. Trained in Paris by a protégé of Henri Cartier Bresson, he is also founder and director of the Washington Photo Safari (www.WashingtonPhotoSafari.com) through which he and his fellow instructors have trained over 16,500 clients since 1999 in the techniques of travel and landmark photography, nature and pet photography, and outdoor portraiture. He thanks former Secretary of Defense Donald Rumsfeld for inspiring the title of this article.





























Monday, August 31, 2009

Get Closer

Options For Shooting Macro!

Macro photography can be done with dedicated macro lenses, diopters that attach to the front of a lens or extension tubes. Dedicated macro lenses will produce the best results with edge-to-edge sharpness that you can't get any other way. They are the most expensive option, but certainly the best of the options available to us. Canon, Nikon, Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina all make wonderful macro lenses. (Nikon's designated macro lenses are called Micro).

Diopters are available as single element or two element. The two element diopters produce much better results and are more expensive than the single element design diopters but you will be much happier with the results. Nikon and Canon both make wonderful two element diopters in a variety of diameters for your lenses. All you have to do is screw this lens to the front of your lens just like a filter. It magnifies the image and allows you to get closer to the subject than you could with the lens alone. Canon's lenses are designated 500D and 250D. The numbers represent the focal length of the diopter. With the 500D you are 500mm from the subject and with the 250D you are 250mm from the subject. Thus the 250D gives you twice the magnification. Both of these work well on any manufactures lens or camera as well as on camcorders.
Photo by Wil Hershberger.

Extension tubes are "free" magnification. By placing an extension tube between the camera and
Photo by Wil Hershberger
the lens you allow the lens to focus closer than it can on its own. However, you will lose the ability to focus to infinity but, when was the last time you were doing macro photography where you were focused at infinity? Canon's extension tubes retain all of the automatic functions of the lens as well as auto focus. Nikon's extension tubes retain all but the ability to auto focus. Kenko makes extension tubes for Nikon camera and lenses that retain all of the auto functions as well as auto focus.

Typically, when doing macro photography you will want to use manual focus. This gives you precise control of the plane of focus on your subject and you don't need to have an auto focus sensor right over you subject allowing for more thoughtful compositions.

Monday, June 8, 2009

Keep your verticals straight!

A photo tip from the founder of the Washington Photo Safari and well known Architectural Photographer, E. David Luria.

Do you have LBS?
It is a medical condition even more prevalent than swine flu! Known as Leaning Building Syndrome, it appears in your building pictures: when you lean back to take the picture, the vertical sides of the building converge in toward the top, an optical phenomenon known as "keystoning."

This is not good! Buildings have straight sides! Elevators do not travel upwards at an angle!

Here is a quick and dirty way the way to keep your building sides straight without dabbling in Photoshop adjustments:

1) use a wide angle lens, preferably a 12-20mm on an SLR (DX format), or an 18-24mm on an FX format camera.

2) Back up as far back as you need to go, preferably across, the street, keeping the camera PERFECTLY level with the ground, NOT leaning back, until you get the top of the building and the nice sky above it in the photo. (A tripod with a level is the best way to do this). Check to make sure the vertical edges of the building are PERFECTLY parallel to the vertical edges of your viewfinder.

3) Take the picture, and then, on the computer, crop out the street or grass at the bottom of the photo, giving you a square or rectangular format photo with a perfectly straight building.

We are happy to have David as one of our instructors at Penn Camera. He is teaching such popular Safaris as the Monuments at Night, Photography as a Second Career, the Fransiscan Monastery, and Regan National Airport Safari just to name a few. Check our website soon as we will be announcing some exciting new Safaris that you won't want to miss.

To find out more about the Washington Photo Safari, visit, www.WashingtonPhotoSafari.com

Facebook responds to image ownership controversy

In Response to overwhelming negative feedback Facebook has reversed course on its claim of ownership to members images
ASMP has sent the statement below regarding the Facebook user information policy decision this week to media outlets nationally, including newspapers, television, radio, business publications, photography trade publications, and wire services. We are asking our membership to support our position and to be vigilant about the terms and conditions governing the sites you patronize. You can also be involved through blogging and talking about the issues. Blogs have formed including Facebook Owns Your Photos and The People Against the New Terms of Service. Other blogs include The Consumerist, an advocacy blog, news blogs etc. ASMP is also coordinating with the Copyright Alliance, who will use our statement on its blog.

ASMP Responds to Recent FACEBOOK Decision to Reverse User Information Policy

ASMP applauds the decision of Facebook to reverse its recent policy change concerning ownership of user information. We encourage other networking sites to review the ownership issues raised and how this may impact members and users.

The important subject of copyright ownership of uploaded material has been underscored by the outcry from thousands who were galvanized by Facebook’s new Terms of Use language granting itself permanent rights to users’ photos, posts and other information – even after accounts were closed. We are pleased that Facebook reported on Wednesday it would delay changes while it works to resolve “the issues people have raised.”

ASMP hopes that the Facebook licensing controversy will bring attention to the important issue of image ownership and control. We encourage our 7,000 + media photographer members across the country to inquire about the terms and conditions of the sites they utilize, and we have asked them to patronize only those who respect the rights of creators to have their work valued and protected.

ASMP is the leading trade association for photographers who create images primarily for publication. ASMP has 39 chapters across the country and over 7,000 members including the world’s premier photographers. Founded in 1944, ASMP is a leader in promoting photographers’ rights, providing education in better business practices, producing business publications for photographers, and helping to connect purchasers with professional photographers